2024 CWA Summit Session Spotlight: Eating Disorders in Indoor Climbing

Eating disorders and RED-S have been hot topics in the climbing world in recent years, and particularly in competition climbing of late. In just the past year, two members of the IFSC Medical Commission resigned from their positions, climbers voiced their desire for more extensive athlete screening, and the IFSC released a new policy on RED-S and athlete testing.

Marisa Michael—a registered dietitian nutritionist, founder of Real Nutrition and author of Nutrition for Climbers—has long been working to combat common misconceptions and narratives surrounding sports nutrition for climbers. At the 2024 CWA Summit, she will be presenting on How To Be a Part of the Solution to Eating Disorders in Elite Climbing. This educational session will cover strategies for preventing these issues and provide practical tools for coaches. We couldn’t wait to learn more, so we started that conversation early.

CWA

Can you tell me a little bit about your nutritional background?

Marisa Michael

I have been a dietitian for 22 years. In this time, I have worked with countless people in their recovery from disordered eating. I've also published peer-reviewed research studying disordered eating and amenorrhea in climbers. I am a board-certified specialist in sports dietetics and hold a master's degree in sports nutrition as well as the International Olympic Committee's Diploma in Sports Nutrition.

My background combines the scientific study and the practical side of nutrition coaching to help climbers, coaches, and climbing professionals gain a better understanding of disordered eating.

CWA

How did you find climbing?

Marisa Michael

My son started climbing when he was 11, and I learned how to climb in order to spend time with him. Now I enjoy climbing with friends, and I've also helped motivate my husband and daughter to learn to climb. I am a recreational mom climber—nothing hardcore! I've enjoyed learning to use my body in a different way than other sports I normally do, such as biking and running.

CWA

How did the two paths of nutrition and climbing converge in your work? Why did you decide to focus on nutrition as it relates to climbing?

Marisa Michael

I started specializing in climbing nutrition during my International Olympic Committee Diploma in Sports Nutrition program, and then I carried that focus into my thesis for my master's degree in sports nutrition. I focused on climbing nutrition since I had an interest in climbing and noticed that there was not a lot of information out there for climbers, and most of it was inaccurate (and potentially harmful). I wanted to contribute to the climbing community by merging my interest in climbing with my sports nutrition expertise. I have been working with that combined focus for about eight years now.

CWA

What will your session at the upcoming CWA Summit cover?

Marisa Michael

Attendees will learn the basics on what disordered eating is, how it may show up in day-to-day behavior, and what to say and do as a parent or coach if you suspect something. They will also learn what RED-S is, how to prevent it, and what to do if a climber may have RED-S.